India Journal 2005, part 1
by
Yogacharya David Hickenbottom


Dear Friends,

January 7
Crossing the International Date Line the calendar was set back by one day; it also represents a new day and a new year being written on a clean, white sheet of paper. As I return to India for the 3rd time I feel I am closing a chapter in my life and I am starting a new one.

Flying at 39,000 feet may seem high, but it does not compare to the heights God has lifted me to in Spirit. Through the Grace of God and Guru I have been granted a loftier vision than a physical elevation from the ground. Even with such spiritual heights, one is required to have one's feet on the ground as well. The last few months have required me to focus more on the world.

With projects for Mother's Birth Centenary, traveling to the Centers before this trip, Christmas celebrations, packing the household into storage, life in the world has been full. Now, this pilgrimage is in motion, these other concerns, having been fulfilled are left behind, as smoke dissipates in the breeze.

Our flight left Seattle delayed, making our connection to Singapore from Los Angeles very tight. The airline personnel had us running to the airplane, Greg and Jenrri ahead, and Carla and I delayed at security. I was pulled over for having forgotten a small pair of scissors in my carry-on bag. Carla was told to go on without me, but she steadfastly refused! We ran, making the plane, only to have it delayed by another half hour! The all-caring Ram had wanted to well circulate our blood before the sixteen-hour flight.

Our arrival in Singapore found our baggage still in Los Angeles. We had all we needed in our carry-on bags, but the airline gave us $120 each for the “inconvenience” we had in not having to deal with luggage we did not need, as of yet! Ram’s play is not only surprising, but also always delightful. Jill made a bid on a five-star hotel, the Marriott on Orchard Drive in downtown Singapore and got the $500 rooms for $60! Then Jill and Greg paid for our hotel room as an anniversary present, and dinner out that night at a wonderful Chinese restaurant in the hotel as well. Oh Jesus, you stated it well, whatever we give-up of the world we get back many times over! My heart melts at your tender gifts to your child.

Mother, you have given so many helping hands to do this work that you have given me to do; so faithful friends, so much love, caring-ness, it is all so overwhelming. “As you give, so shall you receive.” What a great truth has been given us by the Great Ones; how true it has been in my life. In fact, what has been given to me I think far outstrips anything that has been given. So, it seems it comes back to us with interest.

There are many who seem so desperately to want more in their lives. Yet they somehow fail to recognize that those who whose lives run fill to the brim are those that give with all their hearts. How to make it clear to those who feel their cups are empty, that the key is to give?

After an interesting day of touring Singapore we left for Chennai. Again we were informed we had to run down several long walkways to make the plane, only to wait for another hour. Oh Infinite Wonder, You again got our blood pumping in preparation for the three hour plus flight! You are ever looking after us.

On arriving in Chennai Greg mis-placed his passports and money! A desperate search ensued, at last finding the lost treasures. Our cab driver, sent by the hotel had a Ganesh on his dashboard, standard equipment in India; the drivers name was Ganesh as well. He had helped us search the airport grounds for the lost articles. I told him, when he told us his “good name”, that Ganesh (the remover of obstacles) had sent us a Ganesh (the driver) to help us in our need! Oh Lovely Lord of love, You provide all we need, and so much more.

January 8
Chennai is a bustling city, a trade center of South India. Jill once again made wonderful arrangements for our stay at the Hotel Raj Palace. Marble floors, comfortable AC rooms and beautiful furniture make for comfort. The road outside is busy, but the rooms away from the road are quiet.

We called on Ganesh, (the cab driver) to take us shopping. Ram in the form of an Indian Mother helped Carla pick out some beautiful Punjabis. Jenrri was outfitted in some comfortable travel clothes.

Ganesh took us to the Woodlands Hotel for a wonderful Thali Plate lunch (under $2.00 U.S.D.), then on to San Thom Basilica where we felt powerful spiritual vibrations – especially at the side sanctuary. One item of note – the statue of Jesus is standing on a lotus with peacocks on both sides: a wonderful blending of East and West.

We drove by the airport, past a military base, climbed a winding road and at last we alighted on St. Thomas Hill. It was here, legend has it, that St. Thomas was killed by a Brahmin. St. Thomas, a direct disciple of Jesus, traveled to the Kerala coast, then moved to the east coast of India, establishing seven churches. He lived four years in a cave three kilometers from the hill. He was harassed by some people there and so moved from this hill.

The small church and grounds have a definite spiritual vibration, wonderful! There is a stone cross that St. Thomas carved; for several hundred years it bled on December 18th, the date St. Thomas was killed. There is also a picture of the Madonna and child that is said to have been brought to India by St. Thomas. Greg in particular was moved by our pilgrimage to this holy site.

The effect of holy sites is profound for the attuned heart – in fact it can be said it is highly beneficial for all – whether the individual is conscious of the blessings or not. It is a baptism and purification for those who are open on a soul level. What blessings God and His Saints bring to our lives. Om Sri Ram Jai Ram Jai Jai Ram.

January 8
We are leaving Chennai for Ramanashram. Mohammed Ali is our driver of a Toyota SUV. The car is quiet and comfortable and has AC. In contrast to my first visit to India it seems that we are traveling in luxury (comparatively). The first trip was filled with buses, three wheelers and train stations ­-- now, AC Toyotas and a very nice hotel ($30.00 USD). We rode upon a divided toll, well-paved road for half of the way, very luxurious indeed! The toll is not yet collected; that will begin next month.

By asking at two places and with help from a tourist guidebook, we found St. Thomas’ cave near Chennai. I had wanted to visit this place, being told of it the day before. St. Thomas was targeted by a local Raj, (according to our guide) and was chased out of the town. St. Thomas found this cave, which was in a remote area at the time; now it is in a well-populated neighborhood. As we climbed the steps to the sanctuary an older man immediately came to me and took us in hand.

Unlocking an iron-grated door in the sanctuary he led us into the cave. A cross, carved into the rock, greets the visitor (the cross was chiseled some time after St. Thomas). Ducking into a narrow opening (part of the opening has been walled up and is part of the foundation of the sanctuary) I emerge into a spacious cave. The cave is of solid rock, (granite?) a smooth, flat floor and an oval, arched ceiling and walls. I can easily stand, (approx. 20-30 ft.). At one end is a statue of St. Thomas and on one side of the cave is a small opening (barred) (2 ft. by 2 ft.). Our guide explains that St. Thomas lived in this cave for four years, avoiding those who were persecuting him. One day a group of men arrived, intending to do harm to St. Thomas. The cave at that time had but one opening. St. Thomas put his hands where the small opening is now and pushed against the solid rock. The rock gave way allowing the Saint to escape. Part of the opening is several slender grooves, the place where the Saint’s fingers pushed against the rock. At that impression the rock has a glassy type surface in distinction to the rest of the cave. We meditated in the cave for some minutes. We all agreed this cave would be ideal for the purpose of meditating. We were then taken out and around the sanctuary. There, carved into a rock facing, is a cross (a foot or so in diameter). This cross was carved by St. Thomas and Mass was celebrated on this spot. Also there is a deep split in the rock nearby with water coming up from the split in a small pool at its bottom. St. Thomas struck his staff against the stone and it split in this manner; a spring of water emerged at its base.

We left feeling blessed by our visit to this holy site. Onward we drove past rice patty fields, lush greenery everywhere. At one point hills of immense boulders were stacked as if giants had racked rocks into piles. An ancient fort, Gingee (Shinjee) built by a powerful Hindu Raj – has a king and a queen palace on separate hills, connected to a lookout hill (all connected by a 60 foot thick wall) - making an immense triangle fort. Conquered by the Moguls and then rebuilt by them, later occupied by the French. The French put cannons on the walls and finally it was conquered by the British. Since then this previously hotly-contested property and pile of bricks has remained unused. During the last 15 years, the government of India has taken control of the property to save the remnants of this ancient site of a raj-palace crowned on a hill.

Finally we arrived at Ramanashram. With heartfelt anticipation I met Ramanan, the ashram manager and nephew of Ramana Maharshi. This saint has effortless control over my heart. Love flows like a broad, oceanic river when I see him. “It is all Bhagwan,” he says. I say, “I see only God in you, you are Bhagwan’s face!” He smiles demurely. This great saint is so humble, so unassuming; I feel such purity in him.

Oh Infinite Self
You manifest as so many masks
Yet; some masks
Cannot obscure Your Light at All!
Your Light illumines the
Mask itself
And lights the way for
All to follow.

Jai Purusha!

 My heart is satisfied by this darshan and we move to the Ramana Shrine. We do pradakshina around the samadhi site of this fully realized Master. Men and boys chant ancient Sanskrit verses as a priest changes the flowers on the Shiva Lingam. We sit; I sail into spiritual realms as the rhythmic tones fill the shrine.

Sacred Language of the gods
Intoned in a precise measure
Dances ecstatically in the cells
Awakening inner sight.
Sacred Language of the gods
Reveals Atman’s purity
Destroys ignorance forevermore

 At the ashram we are joined by Jonnie Anderson, a devotee from Hornby Island, B.C. She has been in India for a few months now. She has entered India as a fish to water! How delightful to see her in a beautiful Punjabi attire.

I awakened this morning early, gradually distant temple music blares, then another song, horns start their screeches, neighbors loudly talk and clang about. Oh India, you are all so familiar to me now. I think you must ever be entwined in my soul. All your paradoxes, all your noise and your devotion. Oh love - all pervasive – bless this nation with all things good!

January 9
We approached the north-gate of Ramanashram – one man, a guard with a key – another stood with him. I asked about Swami Ramdas’s cave and the second man revealed he was a guide. He had served as such for the past twenty years.

Selroraj (phonetic spelling) took us in hand and guided us to a lovely spot where Ramana Maharshi had often come to sit on a rock to watch the sunset. We were now on the trail that circumambulates Arunachala Hill. This trail is taken by thousands upon thousands, as it is considered one of the most sacred sites in southern India. Legend has it that when Hanuman carried Dronagiri Mountain from the Himalayas to bring an herb that would bring Rama and Lakshmana back to life, that he dropped portions of that hill on the way; Arunachala was one of those dropped portions. This Dronagiri Hill is the same as the one Babaji initiated Lahiri Mahasaya upon! [Ed. - not literally the same hill, but one of the portions dropped.]

We continued up the mountainside. Our guide walked off the trail, plucked some grass, and then brought it back and gave us each a bunch. Lemon grass! It smelled wonderful. He said we could make tea from it. On we climbed only to come upon an orange-clad swami who asked us to sit. He introduced himself as the wandering Swami of Arunachala Hills. His given name was P.N.R. Maheswaren. He was married, with children and a CPA from Bombay. Nine years ago, with his family’s permission he left to be a wandering sadhu and has been here since. He was speaking to another man when we came upon them. The swami asked Jenrri to come sit by him. The other man noted what bright eyes Jenrri had a few times. The Swami appeared to agree and patted Jenrri’s back. He asked about us and we continued on our way.

Onward we climbed through the rugged hills, passing through a saddle in the hill ascending to Skanda Ashram. Ramana lived here six years before moving to the present location of the ashram with a commanding view of Arunachelashwara Temple, one of the oldest and larges temples in south India. We meditated in the inner cave for some time; feeling the peace and presence of the great, fully realized Master, and of the mystic presence of Arunachala (Red Mountain). Our guide then led us down stone steps to Virupaksha Cave, the ashram of Ramana Maharshi previous to Skanda. He had lived there for 17 years (1899-1916). Sri Ramana personally built the bench outside that we sat upon, watching the monkeys frolic in the trees. An attendant kept the monkeys at bay with a sling shot, which he aimed and shot, but without the ammunition of any rock, the motion of shooting was enough to move them back!

We entered the cave of concrete and rock and a Shiva Lingam carved by Ramanaji; again we enjoyed the powerful vibrations of this place. In such places a powerful current travels throughout the body and brain. What comes in the way of experience here is a reflection of the consciousness of the aspirant, charged with this spiritual emanation. One may have body consciousness while there, but much more inner awareness may come if one is attuned spiritually. One’s thoughts are guided, consciousness can be merged in the illumed consciousness of the eternal Master, and one may merge into the all-pervasive Spirit of God. Such is the spiritual power of pilgrimage.

We then left this cave and proceeded to the Mango Tree Cave Ashram. This Ashram is the place Maharshi first lived (after living under the temple) for five years. A swami lives there now with many statues in the cave, his cooking pots line the entry, complete with a TV! We spent some time here; the feeling was more mixed, as the swami and friends chatted outside the inner cave.

We then descended to Almaragagai Ashram, the ashram built around the cave where Papa Ramdas had stayed for 21 days after he had the darshan of Ramana Maharshi; he emerged engrossed in the universal vision. The ashram swami, Swami Sundaram, is an absolutely delightful saint, small of stature (well under five feet tall), wreathed in smiles, he heads a school there of 50 students. The neighborhood here is very poor, garbage spread about; his joy in the midst of squalor is wonderful. The Swami leads us to Papa’s cave and indicates (he speaks only a handful of English words) where we should go. There we see Papa’s picture – we enter the cave. By now the day is warm and we are perspiring, but we settle into the cave. I spontaneously begin the chant, Om Sri Ram. A chorus ensues; I feel Papa smiling as the chorus continues, the cave once again alive to Om Sri Ram, Victory to God, Victory to the Light! On the way out I see the picture of Ramdas Haldipur, the saint from Anandashram who poured so much love upon us. He was governor of Pondicherry at the time and came to visit that cave. This man was so humble; you would never know he had held such a position of responsibility. It was thrilling to see his and his wife, Krishnabai’s, picture hanging prominently on the wall.

January 10

Today we go to visit a saint! The nephew of Ramana Maharshi’s, Ganeshman. Jonni leads the way through some rugged beauty, with many vistas of Arunachala in the morning light. It is wonderful to walk this back road, no plane, taxi or rickshaw in sight, just the sound of the foot and the road.

A friend, Brenda has come with us who came on a tour and has stayed on. She came for spiritual reasons but has been caught up in a soap-opera type of drama that has consumed her. I tell her the narrative of one of Friedman’s Fables. It is the story of a man walking upon his path. He is crossing a bridge when a man approaches from the opposite direction and hands him the end of a rope. The man says, “Whatever you do, don’t let go of the end of this rope, my life depends on it! The confused man sees the rope tied around the waist of the other man, who then jumps off the bridge! The bridge is very high up and the man dangles below. The man above is desperate; he cries out for help, but there is no one else. He looks for someplace to tie the rope off, there is none. He tries to pull the man up, he cannot! The man is heavy and his weight threatens to carry the man above off the bridge as well! He calls to the man below, “Climb up, you must climb up!” The man below says, “No, but whatever you do, do not let go, my life depends on it!” The man above is very desperate; he calls for help again, nothing doing. Finally he calls to the man below, “Listen very carefully, you must help me, you must climb up, if you don’t I will have to let go of the rope.” The man below said, “Don’t let go, my life depends on you; I will not climb up.” The man above let go of the rope and continued on his path. The End.

She [Brenda] listened carefully to this fable and said, “So you are telling me to let it go”. I said, “No, I am only telling you a story”.

We arrived at the ashram gate. We entered the charming, idyllic grounds, shaded in coconut trees, neat buildings, everything orderly and pristine. We entered a large porch area with chairs and cushions lining a side area. The saint was seated with his feet up, in his 80’s (he recently had quadruple bypass surgery). All was quiet; I sat on a cushion on the floor. We sat in silence for some time. Then Ganeshnan spoke for about an hour. Some things he said of note: When speaking one can make a statement with which one might agree or disagree. However, a Realized One describes a state, about which there can be no disagreement; it can only be experienced. This is the difference between a state to be experienced and a statement. The realized state is not far away, or exclusive to one teacher, but very near and the most natural of states.

Sri Ganeshnan told the story: that years ago he read the first pages of a book. (If a book begins with “I say,” he puts the book away. But if it begins “Jesus says”, “Krishna says”, “Bhagwan says”, then he might continue on.) The book he was reading said that Arjuna asked Krishna if all that he had taught in the Bhagavad Gita could be summed up in one word. Ganeshnanji said he had written a 90 page dissertation while in a graduate program– the thought of condensing those 90 pages into 10, was beyond his thought – but to make it two paragraphs – no! And into one word only – inconceivable. In the Bhagavad Gita – each sentence is packed full of information – how could one condense it into one word!

But Krishna said, “Yes, that word is samata, meaning equal. Ganeshman wondered, “Equal does not even sound like a spiritual word – how can it sum up the whole Gita? This problem stayed on his mind night and day for the next days. One day his mother, whom he revered so much, poured him some liquid into a spoon. He saw the liquid in the spoon was level, equal. It dawned on his thoughts, “To be equal all the time is like water finding its level. You do not have to try and make the liquid level; it does so on its own, no matter the size or shape of its container.” This realization sent him into such a peaceful state for the next twenty-four hours. For the mind to be equal, level, no matter what the conditions. What peace comes as a result!

We then visited Arunachashuara Temple. We moved through the three walls of the Temple toward the inner sanctum of the Temple. The Temple is dedicated to Shiva (who became a pillar of fire without end) in response to an argument between Bramha and Vishnu, as to who was greater. Neither Bramha nor Vishnu could find an end to the column of fire, so in the end what they found was humility!

A swami took us in hand and led us around the long lines through a gate (for 20 rupees each). We came to the inner room, the priest asked us to sit, asked our names and did puja. The room in which we sat held a dozen people, each seated. In the inner room was a Shiva Linga (an oblong, oval shaped stone) wreathed in many garlands of flowers. The priest waved the arati lamp in front of the Linga, then brought it out to us for blessings of the lamp and some prasad (cum-cum powder in a packet). We were then led to Parvati’s temple and we repeated the ritual. The priest ended, saying in English, “A blessing for you, your family and your country.” We indeed felt blessed. Throughout our time in the temple it was a state of organized chaos, like so much of India. Tight quarters, smoke filled rooms, many pilgrims jostling through small doors; ah India, you are wonderful, mysterious and difficult – all at once! Om Sri Ram Jai Ram Jai Jai Ram.

It is always interesting how different Masters (those that are in a physical body – and those who are not) make themselves known to a devotee. We sat in Sri Ramana Maharshi’s Samadhi Shrine listening to chanting in the Tamil language, men and women sitting opposite and alternating in the chant; such a beautiful rhythm and melody.

Suddenly I felt the notion to leave the shrine – Carla sitting on the other side followed me. We had yet to go into Ramana’s room where his couch is set behind a small gate, on top of the couch is a large portrait of the Master reclining on the couch.

We entered Ramana’s silent room and sat right in front of the couch. The picture instantly became a living, breathing Presence. Such light, love and warmth came with this Presence, it felt as if I was in the same room with the Master.

I felt a prayer come into my mind; I felt that the Master in front of me was identical with the all-pervading Spirit of God. I prayed,

“Oh Divine Master, I have nothing to ask for myself, I ask that you bless Carla, Greg, Jenrri and Jonni with your Grace – that their divine thirst will be fully awakened, and that that thirst will be answered by your Grace. I pray that all of our spiritual group be blessed as well, so that they will surely tread the pathway to you. May you awaken this world, yes, even this very minute, to Your Light. You, who are all-powerful, can open the hearts of all, leading all in this world to realization. You can raise this world past conflicts and fights. You – who are all-loving and compassionate – can awaken that same love and compassion in everyone! It is You that is praying this prayer through me in this moment. It is You who must answer this prayer.”

(Even as I write this a fathomless pain and ecstasy burns in my heart, a yearning love that flows to the sea – and is that self-same sea – all at once.)

In this powerful experience the image of Bhagwan (meaning God) Ramana Maharshi and Bhagwan (unlimited Spirit) were one and the same. Carla also had a tremendous experience with the Master in which she had profound revelations. We left Ramana’s room; Carla was visibly shaken so I walked her to a more private corner of the patio. The stars were shining above, and tears poured from Carla, her whole body shaking from the touch of God.

Oh Divine Master
Your touch shakes us to the core
You awaken inside our hearts
You may shatter this little human dream
Only to awaken us to Your divine Reality.

 

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© The Cross and The Lotus Publishing/Reverend Yogacharya David R. Hickenbottom, January 2005.
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OM SRI RAM JAI RAM JAI JAI RAM


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