India Journal 2005, part 13
by
Yogacharya David Hickenbottom


April 3, 2005

Dear Friends,

It seems like a long time since Easter, but that is the way travel is in India; one day can seem like many days or even longer! We have traveled from Benares (Varanasi) to Haridwar. The Ganges has called us to this most holy of cities in India.

Before we left we had a wonderful stay next to the Ganges in Benares. We took a boat trip to Ramnagar Fort; it may sound strange to take a pilgrimage there but that will be made clear. Lahiri Mahasaya, even after retirement needed some extra income and was hired by the Maharaja of Banaras to be the tutor to his children. The great Master traveled by boat from the ghat near his house to see the children at the palace across the Ganges. When the water was running high Lahiri Baba would spend longer periods of time at the palace. This was the reason in our interest in taking a boat to the palace.

We landed on the other side of the river after taking a motorboat across. The day was brilliant sunshine and we walked up the same stone steps the Master must have walked. Somehow we both felt a thrill at tracing Lahiri Mahasaya’s steps. The fort, now a museum must have been quite something to see in its heyday; beautiful details on the buildings and silver houdas (elephant saddles) gave hints at a previous splendor. It came to my mind that not only did Babaji create a palace for Lahiri Baba, but he lived in one too. And I am sure in close quarters with all the difficulties that come with court, it lost any luster it may have ever had on him! On our return trip the wind was blowing hard and white caps challenged our return. It was hot and the spray over the bow was refreshing not to mention the wind blowing with it.

Each evening we also witnessed the arati down by the Ganges (as described before.) It was a moving ceremony each time. We also found an excellent pizza and warm apple pie (with vanilla ice cream) just feet away from where the arati occurred! What a nice switch from the spicy food we had a Paramhansa Ashram!

Carla has been having stomach difficulties, and I have had some small discomfort as well. But overall our health has been ok, but it takes a lot of energy out of the system when the stomach is not operating well.

We took the overnight train to Haridwar; Ram came in the form of a family of four that took a seat built for one person straight across from us. Then the husband/father had several friends over visiting besides! Carla said this was a type of horror story! Then it turned out the seat was not even reserved by this family, they just didn’t like where they had been given seats. So I asked them to shift back, but they left their luggage there and the man slept during his naps, which were for hours, and at night. Then he told another man that he could have “his” seat for some time! Then at three in the morning the conductor switched on the lights and started asking us whose luggage and blankets were there on the seat. Well you get the idea what kind of time we had of it. Not only that, but when the man was over in his seat, he would stare at me through the curtains for the whole time. Ram comes in strange forms at times, sometimes to bless us, and sometimes to test us. It was not a pleasant trip but we survived.

Arriving in Haridwar we found a hotel (the fourth one we looked at) that is lovely; our room sits right on the Ganges with its own bathing ghat. We came for the Ganges. This time, more than any other, the river has had a tangible spiritual aura to it. Sitting next to the river I feel that the spiritual current is flowing right through me in a very real way. A woman neighbor said, “We consider the Ganges holy.” I too feel that way and it has proved to be a healing balm to Carla as well.

Today we went to the Mansi Devi Temple (name for Shiva’s wife in the Shakti Devi form¾means inaccessible). A cable car took us hundreds of feet up and 1.5 kilometers distance. We looked upon one statue there that was surpassingly beautiful and we both stood spellbound in the noise and push of an Indian Temple. We stood for some time, then stood for a while longer; caught in the blessings of this seemingly inert stone. Who can explain the effect that a temple and an image like this can have? Can you say it is all mythical (as in unreal) when it has such spiritual power to it? For myself, I only know what I experienced while standing there, the feeling of spiritual power and purity powering from this site.

We then moved over the Ganges about 4 kilometers S.E. from Haridwar and took another cable car up the mountain to Chandi Devi. This is an ancient site, highly revered in Hinduism. Looking out from those heights we felt a wonderful peace as the breeze glided by us and a pair of eagles soared at our height. Monkeys were all around the Hanuman temple and we felt the blessings of this holy site as well.

Finally to top the day off (today, Sunday) we went to the sunset arati here in Haridwar that is famous all over India. Twenty-one large arati lights are waved (the priests have to hold these large lamps with both arms and an assistant pours water on their hands to cool them off.) We stood in the midst of these lamps as they were waved. We set some leaf boats, filled with marigolds and camphor and a wick, to float down the Ganges taking our prayers with them.

It has also been a week of testing detachment. I found out for sure that a memory card in the digital camera malfunctioned and 450 pictures were lost. Also, over three weeks of Journal entries from Nainital and Benares were also lost. When all is God’s, and it is He that is in control over every leaf that falls, every hair on the head, then it must be accepted as well that when He wills it, the very things He has created, He will destroy as well. It reminds us that there is nothing in this world we can depend upon. Only His Divine Presence will remain forever, all else will pass away (and some things sooner than others!).

I am reminded that this week marks one year total I have spent in India in this lifetime (adding up the time from the three trips). It is interesting that this one year anniversary should occur here in Haridwar where seven years ago I sent my leaf boat filled with flowers with the prayer, “Oh Babaji, in the form of the Ganges, show me spiritual India!” It was just after this prayer that I returned to the Tourist Bungalow and Neelu offered to show me Lahiri Mahasaya’s Samadhi Shrine at Keshashram. Yesterday I visited that ashram.

As I knelt at the samadhi shrine, V.S. Kumar helped me to do a Hindu worship of the Samadhi Shrine, repeating sacred Sanskrit words, pouring water over the Shiva Lingum, then on the to worship at the Peepul Tree, the Banyan Tree and then the Rudraksha Tree (that Babaji planed in 1885). I then met the current ashram swami, Om Swamiji. Both Mr. Kumar and the Swami were very sweet and made me feel at home. The Swami’s first words were, “Have you had tea, have you eaten?” So kind, so loving. I told him how three years ago we were there on Holi, and the boys there served us a wonderful dinner on leaf plates, tea in clay cups. Indeed, this was a fitting way to celebrate one year of being in India, blessed by the Masters of past, and sweet devotees of the present.

I pass these sweet blessings on to all of you my dear friends. We are into the last few weeks of being here in India. We will continue on to Rishikesh, then up in the mountains on our way to Dwarahat and Kausani to see Rob Ivie, or Yogi Rob as he is known now.

With all love in God and Gurus,

David

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OM SRI RAM JAI RAM JAI JAI RAM


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