India Journal 2005, part 16
by
Yogacharya David Hickenbottom


April 17, 2005

Dear Friends,

Greetings from Kausani! We are here visiting Rob Ivie, a devotee of Mother’s from the early 1970’s. He is living here now, doing fulltime sadhana. Rob lives in an apartment with a living room, bedroom, bathroom and kitchen that is part of a larger house. The family that owns and lives in the rest of the house are the Nagys.

We are staying in an apartment above Rob’s, complete with a covered porch and a full view of the snowcapped Himalayas! Mataji, Mrs. Nagy is our cook using an open fire in their large room; Mr. Nagy heats water for us on a fireplace outdoors. It is simple living, quiet and far away from busy cities and towns.

Rob has a long-term lease and is doing a lot of renovations on the apartment that have made it sparkle from clean paint, patched walls and new ceilings. He is doing all the work himself and it has turned into intense sadhana! Doing anything in India is more work than one would ever think, but there are no Home Depots to run down to and pick up some varnish, paint or supplies. It has been a real challenge, as testified by his hands, chapped, cut and bruised as he has been striving to get the apartment ready for our visit. It is not all done, but some rooms are finished and the one room left is ready to paint.

Before coming here we left Phool Chatti Ashram, with much gratitude, and drove upstream along the Ganges into the higher elevations. The state highway compares with a poorly kept driveway. Usually one lane of asphalt, there was much road construction in process and the road literally turned into a gravel pit at times, and sometimes no more than a widened goat trail! But the beauty was spectacular at every turn as we climbed up through the forested hills with the river running below in brilliant green.

Our intent in going this route was the prayags (joining of two rivers) found in the upper rivers that eventually make up the Ganges. Devprayag (Deoprayag) was our first stop. We witnessed the brown waters of the Bhagirathi merging into the deep green of the Alaknanda at there. After lunch from a roadside shack we continued up the Alaknanda. More beautiful views showed themselves before coming to Rudraprayag. This was to be our stop for the night and the government hotel was positioned exactly where the Alaknanda and the Mandakini join together.

These prayags are considered holy sites, and with good reason. What wonderful energy is felt as these joinings. We moved down the trail to the river’s edge. There we saw white measuring sticks that showed 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18 meters above the river, showing how the river could rise during the monsoons! What spectacular power there must be in the raging water flow at that time. As it was we felt refreshed and washed clean from our dip in the ice-cold waters.

We watched a procession directly across the river come down the steep trail to the bathing ghat. Flag carriers led the way, drums beat in rhythm and six-foot long brass horns blew their mournful tunes as the devotees came to the water’s edge. A priest set up a lamp and dipped the flags in the Alaknanda at the convergence. They commenced a beating of drums, dancing and chanting that was to last the entire night until sunrise the next morning for this once a year ceremony.

Meanwhile across the river at the very point of convergence a priest and group descended from a temple there and performed an arati as the sun set. It was a busy time of worship and we had prime seats on rocky seats next to the river. How wonderful for God to arrange it for these touching forms of worship to occur as we were in our one night visit there.

Next morning we continued our journey upstream to Karnaprayag. It was at this point that it is said Karna, the eldest brother of the Pandavas, practiced sadhana that gave him impenetrable armor. We braved the traffic to the town center, taking quite some time to get across the one lane bridge and through a small lane that attempted to hold two-way traffic. There were no turn offs and no wide outs, so it is a constant game of who will give way. One rule on the Indian roads, “Never use reverse!” No matter how efficient it may seem to do so, one may never go backwards even a foot, but onwards always! It is all the fun!

We dipped in Karnaprayag before moving on up into the mountains. It is very easy to see why the yogis and pilgrims seek out those prayags, they are truly places of blessing. The steep mountain path was climbed by our intrepid ambassador; a car that would look and drive like a car from the 1950s, only without the power. But, it is the most comfortable car for us¾a large trunk and a roomy backseat¾the suspension handles the constantly bad roads better than the newer cars.

Again more spectacular scenery of high hills and deep valleys; beautiful farmlands and well painted houses made for charming points of interest. We never tired of spotting new temples dotting the landscape. One up on a distant hill, another by a river, usually painted orange, sometimes white; usually pyramidal topped, sometimes domed. They are small temples, perhaps a dozen feet square at the base and around twenty feet tall. They are a constant reminder of the deeply religious nature of the most remote citizens of what Billy Graham called the most religious country on earth.

Finally we arrived in Dwarahat and the Y.S.S. Ashram. What a joy it was to see Brahmacharya (pronounced Brahmacharee)Vasudevananda once again. He is a light for this organization with the most universal view of anyone I have met in YSS or SRF. He was leaving the next morning for some weeks’ trip north, so we had timed it perfectly thanks to our consummate tour Director! We retrieved our luggage that had been left there, feeling a pure vibration of AUM where previously, although the vibration was ringing within, there was nothing but oppositional force. As Sri Yukteswar had said to me, to encounter that dark during our earlier visit was the reason I had come there. That purpose being fulfilled previously, it was now just a delightful visit.

We made the two-hour journey to Kausani and have been with Yogi Rob, this sincere Kriyaban who strives earnestly for his complete realization. We are now counting the days left in India¾five on Sunday. Tomorrow we leave for Corbett Park; it is a seven or eight hour drive from here. After that an overnight train to Delhi in order to fly to Singapore, San Francisco and then to Seattle. We hope to get an earlier flight in the day, next Sunday, than we were able to schedule ahead of time in order to see you all on Sunday.

It will be such joy when we see you once again, after four months on the spiritual pilgrimage in sacred India.

With all love and blessings,

David

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OM SRI RAM JAI RAM JAI JAI RAM


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