Crossing the Hooghly River (a distributary of the Ganges) on the Rabindra Setu (bridge); named for Rabindranath Tagore, the Nobel Laureate. However, the bridge is still commonly called the Howrah Bridge and we are I of 100,000 cars to cross today from Kolkata to Howrah.
From Howrah we turn up river and proceed at a stop and go rate on a very rough road. We are keeping pace alongside children dressed in blue and white school uniforms, being taken to school in bicycle pulled rickshaws. Each inch of space in traffic is fought for with the intensity of a high stakes playoff game.
Finally we come to the large arched gates that tell us we have arrived at Belur Math. This is the site where Swami Vivekananda established an ashram when he returned to India with some Western devotees. It has grown into a large complex that includes Samadhi Temples for Ramakrishna, Sarada Devi (wife of Ramakrishna), Swami Vivekananda and many of the original disciples of Ramakrishna.
The complex sports a new museum of first class quality (except for no air conditioning). Referring to a museum in Calcutta Ramakrishna used the experience as a humorous lesson for keeping the company of saints:
“I visited the museum once. I was shown fossils. A whole animal has become stone! Just see what an effect has been produced by company! Likewise, by constantly living in the company of a holy man one verily becomes holy.”
After our enjoyable tour of the museum we make our way to the large Samadhi Temple of Ramakrishna. This beautiful structure was inspired by Swami Vivekananda, using motifs from around the world that is meant to be an all-inclusive message that every religion is seen as a legitimate pathway to God. The architecture was brought into physical reality by the talents of Swami Vijnanananda, a disciple of Ramakrishna with an engineering background.
Traversing our way to the front of the temple where there sits a life-like statue of Ramakrishna. The vibration of this Temple is charged with spiritual potency, it is felt in the very air. We sit on the marble floor for some time, deeply indrawn into the Master. Released from the things of the world, we sail upon Spiritual wings and feel ourselves transported past the things of time and space. Here, God alone is.
When we feel moved to continue on we tread up the stairs to Swami Vivekanandaji’s room. We peer into his living quarters while standing on the second floor balcony, a cool breeze from the Ganges is refreshing. Then on to the various samadhi temples built along the river. Sarada Devi, so revered by all the disciples is highly honored. Swami Vivekananda Samadhi Temple is powerfully surcharged, even as his personality was while living. It seems there is no end to the blessings that have come to us in the pilgrimage. All according to His will!
We stand in line to get the blessing of Swami Atmasthananda, the current president of the Mission. I had received the darshan of Swami Ranganathananda 15 years ago when he was the president and felt so very blessed. Today, I pronam to the swami and over a little barrier the current head of the Order throws little candies at me, which made me laugh when they landed in my lap.
The long bumpy ride back to Kolkata and our hotel suite. Passing by the many preparations for the coming Durga Puja, a huge celebration in West Bengal that will continue for five days. Durga is a manifestation of the Divine Mother. Durga Puja celebrates the victory of the goddess over the evil buffalo demon Mahishasura; the victory of good over evil. The preparations are extensive, the equivalent of Christmas or Easter in the West. Lights are being hung in the streets, the images of Durga are everywhere, and Prem, our cabdriver tells us, “The streets will be crazy!” An additional meaning was added to this celebration when Durga was identified with the India Independence Movement. We will be gone from the city by the time the celebrations begin and will not experience what it means for these streets to get any crazier than they are on a daily basis!
“O Ram, You have blessed these pilgrims mightily over these past days. Kolkata is difficult, but the pilgrimage feels complete. Pronams, to you, our dear Lord. Pronams, for your great blessings. Om Sri Ram Jai Ram Jai Jai Ram!”
We prepare to leave for the holy city of Puri, the setting of Sri Yukteswar’s seaside ashram and Mahasamadhi Temple.