Southwest Adventures

Gila Cliff Dwellings

We have had wonderful and interesting pilgrimage points in these recent days. Coinciding with the full moon we made our way to San Xavier del Bac, a Catholic Church near Tucson AZ, dating back to 1692. The current structure was built in the 1790s, after the Apaches saw fit to burn down the original structure. However, it was the indigenous tribe, the Tohono O’odham (Desert People), who were instrumental in building the church and maintained loyal followers even when the church went through years of no priests in attendance.

It was our delight that a Pow Wow, traditional dance from Nations across the Southwest, was in progress just behind the church on the day we came. This yearly event attracts dancers to display traditional dance, colorful clothing and feathers, and compete in various categories to keep ancient ceremonies alive to new generations. Non-natives are welcomed, in fact there are times in the day when all attendees are invited out to join in an inter-tribal dance.

The welcoming prayer by a holy man was a fusion of traditional beliefs alongside faith in God’s son, Jesus. He followed the english language prayer with one in his native tongue which, while the words were unkown to me, I found deeply moving.It is heartening to see a spiritual tent broad enough to accommodate beliefs from different cultures–ultimately the conclusion must be drawn that there is but one Great Spirit manifesting in endless varieties of religious expression around the globe.

There were also many varieties of shapes, colors and sizes of dancers; in stature some were short and round, while there was a native dancer who was northwards of seven feet tall! Ladies came in flowing sparkling garments moving in graceful circles, and “old bull” men who had a great sense of gravity to their dance and their beings. Multi-pitched singing was accompanied by large drums beating out the rhythm for the dancers to follow. In Native Culture dance accompanied going on hunts, gathering a war party, a prayer for good rainfall and harvest–song and dance was an integral part of life for these people who have lived on this land for many thousands of years. I clearly hear the singing now as I write about this event; a haunting chant that echoes from time immemorial and calls upon the Creator of us all to bring out the goodness in all endevors.

During an intermission we make our way to the nearby church. It is a beautiful structure that has many paintings and icons on the walls within. It continues to be an active church where mass is celebrated, candles are lit under favorite icons, some sit in prayerful attention while others are streaming through as tourists. Carla and I each buy a “Our Lady of Guadalalupe” candle. I light mine under Divine Mother’s statue for Win, who has been having great health challenges. Carla lights her’s for Christine–dearly departed soul, in honor of her life here with us, and now in her ongoing journey in God. There is a spiritual vibrancy here that was not noted in our time here three years ago.

We then walk out to a hill with a cross on top and a path that circumambulates midway up. Our first stop is at a grotto that has been dedicated to Lourdes in France. This has a definite spiritual vibrancy that is highly attractive. After some time spent here we continue around the hill with views of the verdant valley below; after years of drought this year has brought abundant rains, which in turn has greened the hills, valley and brought out smiling seasonal flowers. We feel the peace of this lovely spot dedicated to God and His saints. May the peace we feel here spread all over this earth and raise humankind’s consciousness to purified heights.

After our pilgrimage to the church and the Pow Wow we continued our journey to New Mexico. This is new territory for me, and it is exciting to be blazing new trails. We journey to Silver City in order to make our way up to Gila (Heela) Cliff Dwellings (recommended by Charmie). A long drive up a very winding road finally brings us to the foot bridge that begins us on our journey back in time. These Cliff Dwellings were built by the Mogollon (Muggy-own) People, ancestors to the Pueblos. These Dwellings were constructed circa 1275 c.e. and were inhabited for one to three generations. Located just above the Gila River, they possibly moved here because there had been a 30 year drought, and the spring gives water year around.

We made our way across 11 footbridges that criss-crosses the creek and gives us sneak peaks of the cliff dwellings above. The surrounding rocks are beautifully sculpted in round shapes by millennia of water flow. Among these rounded shapes are larger caverns that were water-carved and made for wonderful protection from heat and cold, some of them 20 and 30 feet tall. We climbed steeply and then arrived at the first of five caves with  a total of 45 rooms. It is thought that 10 to 15 families lived here.

It is not hard to imagine this being home to these families, children’s laughter echoing in the steep ravine, crops (the “three sisters”: beans, squash and corn) growing down by the river and on the mesa above; a hearty group daily climbing up and down stairs and ladders for their water, crops and game. These homes today are but skeletons after pottery trophy-hunters and mindless vandals took and burned much of what was left by the families. Today there is a peaceful feel to the place, and it is interesting to see how these structures served the purpose of protecting and nurturing families. An additional interest for Carla and me is our attraction to cave sites with yogic-meditation in mind. Caves offer natural insulation from the world’s constant activity and makes eternity seem within easy reach.  

Today, on the Ides of March, we continue on our way. It has been a time filled with outer activity, but also inner activity has been very intense. Awake the night of the fullmoon with God-activity so strong that I felt to be a but a small hut with an elephant inside moving back and forth! “Oh Lord, must I remind you that this body is small, You are immense! With a touch of your finger You make worlds tremble! If it is Your wish to break apart this ‘temple not made with hands,’ then so be it. But if You wish me to serve longer, then You must make me stronger, or perhaps remember to use a gentler touch. Either way, Your will be done!”   

 

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