Picture: Rani Ka Naur (Queen’s Palace); cave 1
As we enter the gate to the manicured grounds of the Udayagiri Caves. There is an intense verbal fight occurring between a large man in a blue shirt and the guard at the gate. The large man is shouting furiously at the guard who is remaining cool during the verbal assault. This tirade continues on and on, at least five minutes without the large man gaining satisfaction, nor is the guard losing his reserve. Oh Ram! What an interesting way you have introduced us to these caves of silence and meditation!
After Buddhism was ascendant here in Odisha the Jains became the most powerful movement in the second and first century before Christ; it was for these Jain ascetics that these caves were made. After the Jains the Hindus gained ascendency, then later the Muslims, afterwards it was the British, and for the last sixty years it has been self-rule. Hundreds, even thousands of years can see a dominant religion, school of thought, or political system reign supreme, but eventually each has a spent life; a beginning, middle and end. It all goes to show there is no permanency on this earth.
The only lasting theme in human history is God-experience; this alone survives down the ages. It has various guises and forms, but the essential nature of it remains the same and can be identified by one who has had that same universal transformation.
I have felt a magnetic draw to these ancient caves, so we have arrived for the purpose of finding traces of the divine vibrations left as a lasting signature of the spiritual work accomplished here. The fame and park-like setting of the caves has made this as much a tourist attraction as a pilgrimage site. I have found this to be the case in places both East and West.
When I was at Kanyakumari at the south point of India where Swami Vivekananda had meditated and had a profound vision, there was no place to meditate, and the police with whistles moved the crowds through without a moment to take in the nature of the place! There are no whistling police here, and it is not so crowded, but most are here to see a sight.
We wander the beautifully sculptured caves in peace and find many wonderful caves in which to sit and feel the substrata of spiritual vibration that continues to reverberate here. It is tremendously hot and humid on this mid-day journey, but we are happy to be in the relatively cool and dry of the caves. These caves are very fine: smooth floors and delightful carvings.
Climbing to the top of the hill there is a breeze that is cooling. I wander down a trail behind the main caves. We enter down into a grove of interesting trees and there is a distinct change. Oh, this is powerful; a tremendous event happened here, a great Soul achieved mahasamadhi bliss. Time dissolves; there is no time, only the beginningless, endless Existence. A potent stillness pervades this grove and it has called me to itself. This is what drew me; this is a tremendous Soul who gained a remarkable realization and left the body here so long ago. We remain here for some time, both of us drinking in the salient feeling.
We depart from this sacred grove and delight in elephant sculptures and other caves, each one wonderful. However, the magnet that drew me is the grove and those who have inhabited this place. There is no marker here as there are for the caves, it remains a secret grove of heavenly proportions that would not fit easily into a tour guide’s book.
Upon our departure the angry man is gone, I wish the big angry man peace. He may have had a righteous cause, however it was misplaced upon the poor guard at the gate. And may the guard be blessed for remaining cool under fire. Om Sri Ram Jai Ram Jai Jai Ram! Despite the initial disturbance these caves and the sacred grove have been a blessing for us.